Exotic Dive Travel and Underwater Photo Tours

Seven Seas from Ambon to Raja Ampat via the Banda Sea

October 31 - November 11, 2008

Price $3,950 per person, maximum 16 passengers

One of the most popular spots on the planet for dedicated underwater photographers is Raja Ampat. With its extreme diversity of fish species and pristine coral reefs, fish and macro enthusiasts come away awed with their productivity. See "Picture Perfect" and David Doubilet’s excellent narrative on this region at http://www7.nationalgeographic.com/ngm/0709/indonesia/sights-and-sounds.html

However, being a wide-angle kind of guy, Stephen was challenged by his last trip to Raja Ampat, because even though the wide-angle vistas were amazing, the nutrients in the water made it tough to capture that portion of the Bird’s Head Peninsula Portfolio. So, this year’s trip revisits the best of the critter opportunities of Raja Ampat, but with a point of departure in Ambon, dive cruising through the crystalline waters of the Banda Sea and terminating in Sorong, the traditional gateway to Raja Ampat. By cruising one-way this time, we will have far greater depth in imaging opportunity, and the trip is timed to coincide with the normally best time of year for water clarity.

Ours is a 12-night schedule aboard the Seven Seas. Our charter is just a week or so after Howard and Michelle Hall have the same boat chartered for essentially the same itinerary (except they will be out to sea for a month) filming their latest IMAX epic.

Sample itinerary on the Seven Seas: For general information only and certain to be revised according to the best dive-ops presenting at that particular time of year! From http://www.thesevenseas.net/

DAY 1 - Arrival - Ambon - Our preferred port of embarkation for Banda Sea cruises, Ambon Island and Ambon town have a good airport with daily connections to Bali and are the closest point to the famous Banda Islands, which are the highlight of any Banda Sea cruise. Guests will be met at the Ambon airport by the "liveaboard" staff, the crew of our luxurious dive vessel for the next 12 nights. After collecting baggage, you will be whisked (20 minutes) in a mini-van to the ship, a classic Phinisi schooner of the same construction which the Bugis people of South Sulawesi have used for centuries to ply the waters of SE Asia and beyond. Over-night we will cruise to the Banda Islands, the famous Spice Islands of Indonesia.

DAY 2 & 3 - Banda Islands - Pulau Run - The ultimate destination for spice fleets from the 10th century onwards, starting with early Arab traders, followed by the Chinese Junks, supplying the Venetian traders with Nutmeg via the Silk Route, the inspiration of Marco Polo’s travels and the incentive for the European voyages of exploration as well as for several colonial wars. Now boosting what are perhaps some of the last remaining pristine reefs in Indonesia, and therewith attracting a new kind of adventure travelers and divers!

Banda Neira and the surrounding islands for thousands of years were the most important island destination on earth and have on them the now crumbling remains of Dutch and Portuguese forts that once defended them. These most central and populated (although still only sparsely) of the spice islands are known from the old descriptions by foreign traders who fought ocean conditions, disease and each other to get to the valuable spices. The reefs and outer walls of the Banda Neira and Gunung Api islands are extraordinary and offer spectacular diving and snorkeling. The Gunung Api volcano erupted 20 years ago and spilled lava over surrounding reefs. But now it is famous in the World of divers and coral reef scientist as boosting the fastest growing hard coral colonies in the world with table corals many meters in diameter only 2 decades after the eruption. The islands themselves are a tropical paradise with interesting villages, a museum and old fords that enable short visits in between dives and other activities.

DAY 4 - Koon Island (Eastern Seram) - Too Many Fish! - Our friend and famous dive Guide Larry Smith, when asked for a name for this site by a guest on one of his cruises had to think for a moment and then exclaimed "Too Many Fish!" Schools of fishes of all kinds come together here at the very point of the island chain east of Seram to spawn in the currents that come across the reefs here. Every season there are different species coming here to this site, often followed by larger animals including Orcas which have been spotted here regularly, together with other species of whales and dolphins. Definitely a site for wide angle photography! From Koon Island we will sail to another favorite destination, the famous Raja Ampat island group off the "Bird’s Head" of West Papua, in the very heart of global, coral reef biodiversity - the very center of what is now known as the Coral Triangle. There is no place on earth with more marine biodiversity!

DAY 5 - Raja Ampat: Southeast Misool - After an overnight steam we’ll awaken at Jef Pele Island, where we’ll have a choice of diving either the giant "blue hole" swim through or a set of pinnacles favored for their luxuriant soft coral growth and the abundance of at least 3 species of pygmy seahorse. Option for an early morning paddle in yet another "secret bay" enclosed with steep rain forest walls (watch out for hornbills and cockatoos passing noisily overhead). We’ll lift anchor mid-morning and steam to Wayalibit Channel. The walls of this channel are coated with literally hundreds of species of soft coral and gorgonian, and the huge schools of silversides and anchovies that move through the channel are the perfect baitfish to attract marauding barracuda, dog-tooth tuna, Spanish mackerel, and even Queensland Giant Gropers. Depending on the mood of the group and the action underwater, we may stay here all afternoon, or move on to yet another fantastic site around some nearby rocks. As always, for the most enthusiastic divers we’ll offer a night dive along these multi-hued walls.

DAY 6 - Fiabacet and Boo - This morning we will start with a dive at Fiabacet rocks and hope that we get some fish action in the current that hits the structures in this passage between some of the longer east-west running islands. At times we have seen schools of rays, riding the currents here and there is always some fish action to keep even the most experienced divers happy. But in between all the action, don’t forget to admire the fabulous soft corals is all sorts of purpose, orange, pink and red, growing in bushes on the rocks. A dive of lifetime if the conditions are right. After Fiabacet, a short steam will bring us to Boo Island for a heart-pounding dive along a submerged ridge subject to strong upwellings - which provide nutrients for prolific coral growth and large schools of both baitfish and their predators. We’ll anchor in a picturesque bay in time for a twilight kayak through the forested islets. For those who enjoy "weird" critters, a night dive in these channels is sure to provide delights - including rare shrimps and large wobegong sharks.

DAY 7 - Wagmab, Furundi, Tomolol - In the island-chain of Wagmab, we will dive the Furundi channel, one of Raja Ampat’s top dive sites and a favorite for cave divers and "critter hunters" alike. We’ll begin the dive in a large swim-through area covered in soft corals and a plethora of colorful nudibranchs, and then move through thick clouds of fusiliers and snappers towards a large sub aqueous cave frequented by bump-head parrotfish and other schools of fish. Advanced divers can consider a penetration to the back of the cave system - primary and secondary flashlights required. In the afternoon we’ll steam towards the "secret" karst canyons of Tomolol. We’ll explore the karst channels of Tomolol by speedboat, ending up in a sacred burial cave hidden in the karst channels. This cave, reaching up to 8 stories high in places and with stalactites over 50’ long, is best accessed by swimming, and will impress even the most jaded cave enthusiast. All topped off with a night dive of course!

DAY 8 - Nampale Blue Water Mangroves - After an early morning steam, we’ll pull up to the "MasMas Ulit" seamount off the NW corner of Misool Island. The top of this reef at 30’ depth is covered with huge coral colonies where it is common to find giant groupers hiding. If the current is running, large schools of jacks and barracudas frequent the sea mount, and grey reef sharks are frequently encountered as well. From here will make the short steam to the islets of Nampale, home of the "blue water mangrove channels" which world famous National Geographic photographer David Doubilet proclaimed his favorite site in Raja Ampat. Here we’ll have the opportunity to dive, snorkel and kayak amongst these Clear water mangrove channels, where it is common to see schools of archerfish and other swamp fishes that are normally hidden in murky waters. Underwater photographers will delight in the unique subject matter available here, including amazing "over-under" shots of mangroves and huge black coral trees growing on their roots.

DAY 9 - Kofiau - Early risers should keep their eyes on the horizon for sperm whale spouts, commonly seen as we near Kofiau. The extensive reefs of Kofiau are now gazetted as Raja Ampat’s first fisheries reserve. We’ll do our first dive off Walo Island, where the early morning sun reflects off the pure white sand bottom to illuminate the scattered pristine patch reefs and create a Zenlike diving experience. We’ll then dive the outer wall of Walo, and those that are interested can kayak/snorkel into the lagoon which the island’s outer shores conceal. The channel into the lagoon is frequented by seahorses and colorful reef fishes, and brilliantly colored kingfishers are also frequently sighted here. We’ll end the day with a dive in Kofiau’s Wambong Bay, where Gerry Allen previously recorded a world record 284 species of fish in a single dive! This evening descend to the bottom of the mangrove channels at 40’ and enjoy the many large fishes dwelling here, including the endangered Queensland Giant Groper (Epinephelus lanceolatus) and schools of long-nosed emperors. If we’re lucky we’ll encounter one of the pods of spinner dolphins that enter the channels in the late afternoon to shelter for the evening.

DAY 10 - Fam Islands - Melissa’s Garden - The Passage - Early morning we will steam 2 hours to "Melissa’s Garden" in the Fam Islands - an "electric" dive site with expansive coral gardens discovered by Max Ammer, the owner of Papua Diving and the only operational resort in the Raja Ampat islands to date. Max named the dive site here for his daughter. You will note the incredible large hard coral colonies that give the structure and the color to this reef and that will make so many divers want to go back here again and again. Look for the wobegong sharks sleeping on top of some large table corals or inside the huge sponges on this reef. It is a large site which has surprises each time we return to it. Apart from Melissa’s, which many of you will want to dive at least twice(!), we will also dive the passage, a narrow strait between 2 of the small islands, with great coral cover and lots of fish, great and small. We’ll do a night dive in a narrow strait known for its soft coral walls and frequent sightings of the tasseled wobegong shark, a curious bottom-dwelling shark found only on the reefs of New Guinea and Australia.

Day 11 - Aljui Bay - Those advanced divers who are interested can awaken early for an early-morning adrenalin rush dive amongst Roibe rocks in a swirling "fish soup". We’ll then steam into Aljui Bay, an extensive mangrove-lined inlet home to Australian-run Cendana IndoPearls pearl farm. After diving a gorgeous wall in one of the bay’s many inlets (eyes open for more wobegongs!), we’ll visit the pearl farm for a tour of their fascinating operations (pearl farms are one of Raja Ampat’s primary employers and function as de facto marine reserves). And yes, they do have pearls for sale - but although they are a bargain, these are amongst the world’s finest pearls with a commensurate price tag! Depending on operations at the time, we may be able to dive under the Cendana dock - a world-class "muck dive" with dozens of stonefish, ornate ghost pipefish, and even the giant "solar-powered" nudibranch. This evening we’ll also have on offer a night dive on a wall inside the bay which is known for its abundance of unique crustaceans - including zebra crabs and Coleman’s shrimps riding on fluorescent-colored fire urchins.

Day 12 - Dampier Strait - Upon waking, enjoy a sumptuous breakfast and take in the gorgeous island scenery before we prepare to dive on Cape Kri at the mouth of the Dampier Strait, where the New Guinea Coastal Current flushes through Raja Ampat. You’ll soon see why Asian Diver proclaimed these "reefs on steroids" as you are enveloped in schools of barracuda, jacks, and fusiliers as you drift over the stunning coral formations. We’ll spend the rest of the morning exploring several other top reefs of the Dampier Strait, ensuring "maximum diversity overload" for this last day of diving. For those that are interested in top-side activities, we’ll have an optional speedboat excursion to Mayalibit Bay, a unique salt-water lake that bisects the large island of Waigeo and connects to the ocean through a stunning fjord-like channel.

DAY 13 - Disembarkation and Departure

Only a few spaces remain, so please reserve your space early!

Great White Sharks South Australia

June 20 - 26, 2009

Price Cage access $6,000 (limited to only six participants, only 3 spots remain)
Boat-only access $2,500 (limited to 2 spots and available only to friends/spouse of cage access shooter)

In the fall of 2003 - winter 2005 I went to the three most productive great white shark hotspots on the planet, South Africa, Guadalupe, and South Australia. Guadalupe had the clearest water, South Africa had more interesting topside encounters, but for overall quality of both underwater and topside action, and the most shark encounters per hour on the boat, South Australia kicked butt! See http://www.stephenfrink.com/sf-reports/200402sharks/ for a complete report.

For 2009 I will charter the Princess II from white shark legends Rodney and Andrew Fox. http://www.rodneyfox.com.au/ Even though the vessel can accommodate 12 passengers in 6 double staterooms, I don’t want 12 people competing for cage time. Therefore, this is extremely limited participation, only 6 cage divers allowed. I figure there are so few white shark opportunities in life, and no doubt there will be fewer as time goes on. It is better to do it absolutely the right way, even if it costs a little more, in order to maximize the photographic potential. Princess II also offers an option no other white shark boat can match, the possibility to land the cage on the shallow kelp decorated seafloor and photograph great white sharks in their own environment, rather than just against open water. The cage is tethered to the boat and winched into position and the sharks then baited to the cage, providing for a very safe and secure encounter.

We recognize some of our clients travel with non-diving spouses, or perhaps those who simply don't demand the same intimate access with great white sharks. For those clients we offer a deeply discounted package, at just $2,500 and for only 2 people. These non-cage divers will have all the same topside viewing opportunities, the chance to go ashore at the South Neptune Island to photograph the Australian sealions and new Zealand fur seals in residence, and the same chance to dive with the sealions at Hopkins Island. However, they won’t be competing for cage time and will be rooming with a cage diver. This is subject to availability and rooming compatibility, but in any event no more than 2 passengers.

Tonga Humpback Whale Expedition aboard NAI’A

July 20 - 30, 2009

Price $4,570 per person

Web reference - http://www.naia.com.fj/tonga/index.html

We first announced this trip in a December e-mail to our MFT clients and had excellent response. In fact, there are only a few spaces remaining, but we thought we’d mention it one more time before placing the trip details on the web. There are very few places on the planet where snorkelers are allowed to interact with humpback whales, and among them Tonga offers the greatest consistency of encounter and clearest water. The NAI’A is one of the world’s great live-aboards (see http://www.stephenfrink.com/sf-reports/200411fiji/ for a report on our last trip aboard NAI’A in Fiji) and it is always a great pleasure to cruise with the NAI’A team.

© James Watt

These dates are optimized for the Tonga whale season, based on their ongoing experience since 1999 when they first launched their whale encounter expeditions there. In addition, the Tonga whale adventure also provides the opportunity for reef diving, far different than going to the Silver Bank or anywhere else where humpbacks might congregate. Here’s what NAI’A has to say about their diving:

Caves, Coral & Clear Water
NAI’A’s Tonga Humpback Whale Expeditions includes excellent scuba diving opportunities separate from whale watching. We plan at least one dive each day, in the afternoon and/or night after spending an exhilarating day sailing among whales. We will choose our evening anchorage specifically with the intention of finding an interesting dive site nearby. After eleven years exploring the remote untouched sites of the Ha’apai Islands in Tonga, we have logged dives on some exceptional reefs and marked them on the charts for our return. As always though, our itinerary is flexible - dictated by the desires of our passengers and the moods of the weather. If we strike a rainy day and whales are hard to find then we can simply escape underwater. On the other hand, if we are surrounded by playful, breaching, singing whales, it’s unlikely you’ll want to leave the scene for a dive.

Diving in Tonga truly means exploring new frontiers. While Vava’u is home to several well known sites visited regularly by the local shore-based diving operations, the remote Ha’apai Islands are virtually virgin territory. Only a fraction of the country’s 170 islands and many more submerged reefs have been explored - fewer than 40 islands are inhabited! Yet, Tonga was the first South Pacific nation to set aside marine reserves. Two of those 10 sites where collecting and some fishing is prohibited are giant clam farms. Tonga’s astounding visibility (in the 76-degree winter water 150ft plus is not uncommon) means the concentration of fish and invertebrate life on the reef is less than in Fiji. But the view it opens up of the rising and falling seascape, sweeping detail of hard coral gardens, towering pinnacles, schools of open water pelagics and gaping caverns is a spectacular alternative. Most of the Ha’apai Islands are low coral atolls, although there are several active volcanic islands and the main landmasses boast extremely fertile soil. Kau Island is a volcanic cone reaching 1109m and neighboring, Tofua,, the site of the Bounty mutiny, is an active, spewing volcano. Tonga is experiencing the earth’s fastest shift at 10 cm in the direction of Samoa each year!

© James Watt

If you are going to travel all the way to Tonga, why not spend some time before or after your NAI’A adventure in Vava’u, an idyllic vision of brilliant blue water surrounding shallow fringing reefs and high island peaks. Some dramatic coastal caves below the surface harbor white tip sharks, lobster and schooling fish - others form interesting dive sites by their shape alone. Mariner’s Cave is a giant bubble cave that materializes about 10 feet under and tunnels 20 feet into a submerged ledge of coral. Other unique sites in Vava’u include Gorgonian Valley - layer upon layer of giant sea fans growing upright from an undersea gully - and the wreck of the 300-foot Clan McWilliam copra trader in Neiafu Harbor.

All in all, it sounds like a wonderfully eclectic experience with one of the sea’s most inspirational creatures.

Great White Sharks Guadalupe

October 8 - 13, 2009

Price $2850, 10 passengers only

There are several months in the fall, when conditions are right and the sharks in residence, that Mexico’s Guadalupe Island is the right place to be for great white shark encounters. Please see http://www.stephenfrink.com/sf-reports/2003guadalupe/ for a report of my last trip there. The advantages to Guadalupe are easy access (a 22-hour steam out of San Diego, so no international airfare involved and a large comfortable boat to make the crossing to Guadalupe), ultra-clear water (by far the best water clarity of any white shark encounter anywhere), relatively modest expense (by white sharking standards), reliable shark encounters, and lots of sharks. Most trips reports they have sharks at the cages from within the first hour of deployment up until the end of the trip. We will be splitting a charter with Nautilus Explorer as they are a 20-passenger boat. So, expect that there will be other white sharkers aboard, but recognize that with our group taking half the boat, we will be assured a very high level of professional service and plenty of cage access.

Why the heavy emphasis on white sharks for 2009? Unfortunately, all sharks in every ocean are in serious peril due to overfishing and the unconscionable shark finning trade. While I remain guardedly optimistic about the future of great white sharks, I think the time is now to experience the ultimate marine predator while populations are significant and the white shark photo opportunities mature and productive. I hope I’m wrong, but this may be the apex of shark photography potential in our lifetimes.

North Sulawesi aboard Paradise Dancer

May 7 - 18, 2010

Price $4000.00, 18 passengers

When my friend Peter Hughes called to tell me about his new flagship live-aboard being built, the Paradise Dancer (see http://peterhughes.com/paradise/paradise_dancerindex.shtml) I was immediately intrigued. After all, what is not to like about a 180-foot luxury live-aboard for only 18-passengers cruising to the heart of the coral triangle in Indonesia. All itineraries are 11-days, and we will board the boat in Manado and cruise through Bunaken Marine Preserve, along the remote and minimally explored northern islands, and wrap up the tour by diving the best muck and macro environment I’ve yet experienced, the Lembeh Strait. 2010 seems like a long time from now, but this trip will assuredly sell out quickly, so if interested please contact Barbara as soon as possible. Barbara@stephenfrink.com